Restaurant Oben is a culinary jewel on top of Heidelberg in the Kohlhof area next to the Kaiserstuhl, offering exquisite regional cuisine.
I wanted to go for a long time, but I struggled in the past with their WhatsApp message-based reservation system, which is now replaced with a professional system that makes it easy to book a table. However, the line is still long, and they are sold out months in advance; the waiting list is also long.
The Restaurant Oben ensures an intimate dining experience with limited tables. You’ll have the staff’s undivided attention, whether seated by the window or in a cozy corner. It’s the perfect spot for a celebration or a joyful foodie night.
The restaurant’s name, “Oben,” translates to “above” in German and lives up to this promise. I took a taxi to the restaurant as public transport is limited. As you ascend the 300+ meters, you reach a lofty, breathtaking location. Once in the restaurant, you’ll be surrounded by an elegant and contemporary ambiance.
The interior design blends modern aesthetics with warm, inviting tones, creating a sophisticated and welcoming atmosphere. I loved sitting on a padded Eames RAR chair.
Robert Rädel and Mona Schmid are true artists. Their culinary creations are a harmonious blend of tradition and innovation. Expect a menu that celebrates regional products, is rich in aroma, and has a creative touch. The team offers a menu for each season and is sourced seasonally from local farmers and markets. Many ingredients are also preserved during peak season to provide a broad palette in winter.
Philipp Kloos, the sommelier, offers a carefully selected wine list and pairing. The pairing complements each dish perfectly, and the wines are chosen from the local Baden and Pfalz regions.
The Restaurant Oben is more than a place to dine; it’s a beautiful journey for your senses. You’ll be in a culinary haven from the first sip of a regional Sekt to the last bite of dessert with coffee or tea. If you live in the region or are passing by, the restaurant Oben is worth stopping by. I just came for a restaurant visit from the south of Germany and will do it again.
Impressions from the Restaurant Oben
Impressions from the Winter Menu
Prolog
I started the dinner with a Raumland Pinot Rosé that paired beautifully with the four small bits. The four bits perfectly open the dinner with regional flavors representing the season, with the main products being carrots, brown trout, deer, and cabbage.
On the left is a combination of carrots, chamomile, and barley miso in two forms: a hot soup and a sorbet.
On the right, the Odenwald sashimi is made from a local salmon trout, fermented Kohlrabi, and caviar from the salmon trout.
On the left is the deer sandwich and fir sprout collected in May. The fir sprouts were shock-frosted (on top) and dried & grinder (on the bottom)
On the right, the Smoked cabbage. The white cabbage was backed, then sliced, warmed, smoked, and then served in a sauerkraut sauce.
Onion, semolina, bone marrow
The large onion was hollowed out, and the inner portion will be backed for a few hours. The resulting onion stock. This stock will be used to cook the polenta. Bone marrow will be added to achieve an extra creaminess. The polenta is served in the onion shell with a bread chip, mayonnaise, and pickled pearl onions.
It is simply one of the best onion dishes I ever tasted.
The next course was served in the kitchen
Now, it was time to visit the kitchen. Every table could visit the kitchen and sit beside it to enjoy a course. I was first and had sweet bread and pea dish in the kitchen. A small kitchen that is big enough for the two chefs to cook. It would be great to have a counter to watch them cooking all the time, but it might be too small overall.
Pea, sweetbread, mint
Fried sweetbread with peas, pea mousse, and pea soup; an excellent combination.
Country pig tail, boskoop, chives, horseradish
Their signature dish has been served for over five years and no longer be taken away. It is the incarnation of a nose-to-tail concept. The country pigtails are pickled in beer and salt and then cooked sous-vide for 10 hours, resulting in mouth-watering meat. Afterward, it will be fried on the skin. This will be served with a vinaigrette made with boskoop apples, chives, mustard seeds, and horseradish for a bit of spiciness.
For sure, I understand why it is their signature dish. It is unbelievable, mouth-watering.
Celery backed in salt, poppy seed, and celery ferment
The celery is backed in a salt crust, then sliced, served in a fermented celery sud, and topped with poppy seeds. On the side, you have celery cream, topped with celery and fermented poppy bud.
The dish can easily be compared with excellent celery dishes I had at Horvath’s in Berlin and the Table in Paris. The backing preserves the full flavor of the celery. It’s impressive and delicious. There are so many cooking variations that bring forth an incredible celery.
Zander, parsley on top & bottom
The locally fished zander is seared in brown butter and put on top of a salad made from parsley root and smoked almonds. The salad is served with a parsley vinaigrette. The whole dish is then topped with lemon mayonnaise, puffed wheat, and parsley.
Beef Stroganoff, rösti
A regional beef stroganoff interpretation comes with rösti, topped with mushroom cream, pickled cucumber gel, red beet gel, and sour cream.
The beef comes from a stewed ox tail that is later combined with beef filet. The sauce is again made with mushrooms, red beets, pickled cucumber
The dish comes in two parts: the rösti and beef stroganoff. This preserves the crispiness of the rösti.
Pumpkin, earl grey, ginger
The next course was a refresher with pumpkin cream ice cream topped with candied ginger and caramelized pumpkin seeds. A stock made of black tea, ginger, and pumpkin oil soda perfectly augments the ice cream.
Yeast, pear, riesling
The desert has three yeast dumplings, pear spheres, and a riesling foam. This “closed” the menu with a perfect end.
Lucky nut
In the end, the lucky nut came. “Make a wish,” and it will become true.
This closed a fantastic dinner and I am sure that I will come back during another season; maybe during summer. When will you go?